Intelligent Fixture Rigging

An intelligent fixture is a fixture with multiple functions, such as movement, gobo and colour.

Intelligent fixtures are connected to a constant power supply, termed non-dimming power to distinguish it from the variable power supply provided to generic fixtures by dimmers. The fixtures are also connected to DMX directly, allowing all the functions of the fixture to be controlled.

Rigging is similar to the rigging of generic fixtures, but is slightly more complex.

Rigging/De-rigging requires 2 people

As rigging intelligent fixtures can be more complex than rigging generic ones, it is best to read and understand Generic Fixture Rigging before reading this.

Rigging Locations

The wide variety of intelligent fixtures means there are a number of different ways to rig them, depending on the type of fixture used.

This article aims to cover the basic techniques of rigging intelligent fixtures, and will cover the different ways each can be rigged.

Moving Heads

Moving head fixtures make up the majority of fixtures in Venue 1. These include both spot and wash fixtures, and examples include the Alpha Spots, Alpha Washes, Pro Spots and 5-Stars

Moving head fixtures can either be rigged hanging down from a bar, truss or other rigging point,supported by clamps; or upright on a flat, solid surface such as Nivodeck or the floor.

Moving Mirrors

Moving mirror fixtures, or "scanners", are not used as often as moving heads. Examples include the Martin 518s and the Technobeams.

Moving mirror fixtures can only be rigged hanging down from a rigging point. Although they can stand upright, the DMX sockets and ventilation fans are often located on the bottom surface, so they cannot be used in this way.

Architectural Fixtures

There are several architectural wash fixtures in the Union, occasionally used in Venue 1 or around the Union. They are used to wash large surfaces/areas, such as a screen or exterior wall of the building. The two types present are Kolorados and City Colors.

The architectural fixtures are stored in their own wheeled flight cases. These fixtures are always rigged upright, and are always rigged in their flight cases - the lid is removed to allow use of the fixture.

These fixtures are very heavy, so should only be transported using the flight cases. If they need to be lifted onto a different level, such as onto the stage, then an absolute minimum of two people is required, although 3-4 people is recommended.

Others

There are a number of other intelligent fixtures, such as Martin Destroyers.

These resemble generic fixtures in shape, and should be rigged by hanging from a rigging point using a clamp.

Before Rigging

Check Rigging Point

Check the area around the rigging point, whether it is a lighting bar or a space on the floor, to make sure there are no obstructions that could make rigging difficult or hazardous. Take care when rigging near other fixtures, as these may be hot, and ensure sufficient clearance is left around intelligent fixtures to allow their full range of movement.

Remember to allow enough space around the fixture currently being rigged, for its full range of movement.

Prepare Fixture

Prepare the fixture for rigging

Suspended

If the fixture is to be rigged suspended from a bar/truss, it must be fitted with clamps.

The most common type of clamp used for moving head fixtures is a circular Cheeseborough clamp, also called a pipe clamp or C-clamp ("pipe clamp" will be used for the rest of this article). These are able to support the fixture and cope with any movement introduced when the fixture is in use.

Pipe clamps contain a bolt as part of the clamp structure, and this is fitted with a wingnut. Loosen the wingnut to allow the clamp to open and close for rigging, but do not remove the wingnut!

A number of moving head fixtures within Venue 1, such as the Alpha spots, have pipe clamps tightly bolted onto the fixture. These should not be removed. See below for guidelines on rigging the fixture upright.

The second type of clamp used is the G-clamp, as used for generic fixtures. These are mostly used for moving mirror fixtures, and sometimes for moving heads.

Space frame clamps should not be used for intelligent fixtures. The space frame cannot support the additional weight and movement of these fixtures.

Moving head fixtures should be fitted with two clamps (of the same type/size), spaced approximately 15 cm apart, and bolted into mounting holes on the fixture or on an adaptor on the base of the fixture (speak to a senior member of the crew if you are unsure about this).

Moving mirror fixtures, and other intelligent fixtures that can be rigged this this fashion, have a yoke, to which the clamp should be bolted. Follow the same procedure as with a generic fixture.

Upright

When rigging moving head fixtures upright, any clamps fitted must be removed.

Alpha Spots and Washes have an adapter on the underside of the fixture that connects the clamps to the fixture. Remove this when rigging the fixture upright. The clamps should not be unbolted from the adaptor.

When rigging any other moving head fixture, unbolt the clamp from the base of the fixture.

Testing/Addressing

It is often a good idea to test the fixture on the ground before rigging, and to set the address of the fixture (see below for instructions on this). This is not essential, and can be carried out once the fixture is rigged.

Moving head fixtures MUST be stood upright before they are tested, as the fixture moves during the power-on cycle. This cannot be done if clamps are fitted to the fixture.

Moving mirror fixtures should be laid down to test, ensuring no moving parts (i.e. the mirror) or ventilation holes/fans are obstructed.

Rigging (Hanging)

Follow these instructions for rigging the fixture by hanging it from a rigging point.

Working at Height

If working at height make sure you follow the correct procedure.

Raise Fixture

As with a generic, the fixture must be raised to the rigging point.

This can only be done by hand if the rigging point is no higher than head height. If the rigging point is any higher, use a rope!

If a rope is used, loop it around the bar the fixture is being rigged on and attach one end to the fixture. The way the rope is attached depends on the fixture being rigged. Use a figure-8 knot, and ensure the fixture is secure before raising it.

The fixture should be raised by 1-2 people from ground level, using the other end of the rope. Ensure the fixture does not swing into the ladder/scaffolding tower.

Whether a rope is used or not, a minimum of 2 people are required. One person takes the weight of the fixture, either by hand or using the rope, while the other applies and secures the clamps.

Attach Fixture

If a G-clamp is used, hook it over the bar and tighten the bolt to secure it.

If a pipe clamp is used, close it over the bar, close the bolt to hold the two sides together, then tighten the wingnut to secure the clamp.

Secure Fixture

Once the clamp(s) is/are secure, a safety chain must be fitted.

On moving mirrors/other intelligent fixtures, loop the chain around the bar and around the yoke of the fixture, unless instructions on the fixture advise otherwise.

On moving heads, loop the chain over the bar and attach it to the fixture. The attachment method varies between different fixtures. Check the information on the fixture, or in the instruction manual (preferably before rigging!) to determine where the chain should be attached. If no information is given, it is usually safe to attach the chain to the carrying handles on the base of the fixture. If in doubt, check with a senior member of the crew.

ALL fixtures MUST be fitted with a properly secured safety chain appropriate to the weight of the fixture. Failure to do so can result in damage and/or injury, and a very angry Bruce.

Ensure the safety chain does not interfere with any moving parts of the fixture!

Rigging Upright

Rigging the fixture upright is much simpler! The exact procedure depends on the type of fixture being rigged.

Moving Head

Simply place the fixture upright in the desired position. Ensure there is sufficient clearance around the fixture for its full range of movement, and make sure it's out of reach of pesky punters.

Architectural

Move the fixture (in its flight case) to the desired position, and remove the lid (this is easiest with 2 people).

Apply the brakes to the wheels of the flight case (where fitted), and ensure the fixture will not roll away.

Power Fixture

Intelligent fixtures require a constant supply of power (non-dimming). This is either supplied by 15 A round-pin plugs or 16 A Ceeform connectors. Power is supplied from the Rubber Box, which has 18 16 A Ceeform sockets.

The majority of intelligent fixtures within Venue 1 require less than 15 A, so 15 A cables can be used, and converted to Ceeform if required. Alternatively, 16 A Ceeform can be used, and converted to 15 A if required.

Often, two fixtures can be connected to one 16 A supply, however check with a senior member of the crew before doing this.

The architectural fixtures can be powered from a conventional 13 A socket. However, only one fixture can be powered from each socket, and multiple fixtures cannot be powered from the same double socket.

Connect Fixtures

All intelligent fixtures require a DMX connection for control (although some, such as the architectural fixtures, have built-in presets and controls that can be used instead)

Connect the fixtures using DMX cable to a desk, the optosplitter, or an existing connected fixture. Pay attention to the direction of the cable (the male end of a cable always points towards the desk, and the female end towards the end of the chain) and the number of pins (use an adaptor if necessary).

A DMX terminator should be fitted to the "Out/Thru" socket of the last fixture in a chain. This is a resistor that is required for DMX to function correctly. Although some fixtures will automatically do this if they are last in the chain, one should always be fitted to make sure the chain is terminated properly.

Addressing etc.

How-to for each fixture remove locks!

Extra

Moving heads: nose down